I hope you are feeling hungry tonight, because I am going to talk about food again. I'm starting to think the title of this blog is just a misspelling...
Looking back on my post from last Monday, it sounds a bit disparaging for the noble institution that is haggis. I never even mentioned that I actually do like that dish, and as it happens, I had some on Burns Night. But beyond haggis, I would like to come to the rescue of British cooking in general. When I moved to the UK, many people commiserated on the misfortune, for someone who likes his food, of having to live in England. In fact, even German friends, whose own national cuisine leaves somewhat to be desired, were commenting on the notoriously poor reputation suffered by England in the domain.
It is true that I had myself some slight apprehension, fuelled by a couple of earlier stays in the country as a teenager. Memories of limp vegetables totally devoid of taste, of overly filling ready-made custard, and of the trembling chemical mess that is jelly, were making me doubt whether I had made the right decision. But I had to dismiss those fears after a few days. Granted, the quality of native cuisine is nowhere near that of France or Italy, for instance. Yes, jelly is still selling pretty well, as are other monstrosities like Marmite, spam, or sausages made of a nominal amount of meat mixed with something resembling sawdust. But having no strong culinary tradition, Britain has had no reason to be protectionist about food, and has been able to accommodate, in some cases even integrate, some of the best cooking traditions from all over the world: France, India, China, to name but a few. More strikingly, maybe as a reaction to past indifference for food, the last couple of decades has seen an explosion of interest in the field: I don't think any other country has as many programs about cooking and food on TV, and I am pretty sure none has elevated TV chefs to the semi-godhood status they enjoy there.
So, you can eat very well in Britain, that is, provided you are willing to pay the price. There are several three-Michelin-starred restaurants in and around London, one of which has been voted a couple of years ago the best restaurant in the world (would it surprise you very much if I told you it was by a panel of British food critics?...) In the best supermarkets, you will find delicacies from all over the world, good quality ingredients and ready meals that sometimes taste better than what you would be served in an average restaurant. And the emergence of the gastro-pubs means that having a quick lunch in a pub is no longer a game of russian roulette, but can actually be quite a pleasant experience. There are even a couple of local fast-food chains where you can have a meal that is both healthy and tasty.
As for the native dishes, well, Brits have been wise enough to preserve those that were worth it, and there are a few. I think I don't need to sing the praise of the English breakfast, one of the most satisfying ways to start the day when cooked properly. Or of the fish and chips, which can be can be a truly heavenly fare, if you know how to prepare it. I have to mention also pies (a turkey and ham pie made with the leftovers of the traditional Christmas meal can be to die for); bread and butter pudding; apple, or better, rhubarb crumble; stilton and port; pim's (not food as such, but there is a lot of fruit in it!); or, last but not least, scones with jam and clotted cream. Not only is that last one delicious, but the whole ritual of high tea as you can still experience it in some British hotels just sends you back to another world. One where no matter what the food in your plate tasted like, you were never going to allow the outside world to disturb your enjoyment of it. Admirable principles!
God, I am feeling quite hungry now. Do you mind if I go for an evening snack?
Looking back on my post from last Monday, it sounds a bit disparaging for the noble institution that is haggis. I never even mentioned that I actually do like that dish, and as it happens, I had some on Burns Night. But beyond haggis, I would like to come to the rescue of British cooking in general. When I moved to the UK, many people commiserated on the misfortune, for someone who likes his food, of having to live in England. In fact, even German friends, whose own national cuisine leaves somewhat to be desired, were commenting on the notoriously poor reputation suffered by England in the domain.
It is true that I had myself some slight apprehension, fuelled by a couple of earlier stays in the country as a teenager. Memories of limp vegetables totally devoid of taste, of overly filling ready-made custard, and of the trembling chemical mess that is jelly, were making me doubt whether I had made the right decision. But I had to dismiss those fears after a few days. Granted, the quality of native cuisine is nowhere near that of France or Italy, for instance. Yes, jelly is still selling pretty well, as are other monstrosities like Marmite, spam, or sausages made of a nominal amount of meat mixed with something resembling sawdust. But having no strong culinary tradition, Britain has had no reason to be protectionist about food, and has been able to accommodate, in some cases even integrate, some of the best cooking traditions from all over the world: France, India, China, to name but a few. More strikingly, maybe as a reaction to past indifference for food, the last couple of decades has seen an explosion of interest in the field: I don't think any other country has as many programs about cooking and food on TV, and I am pretty sure none has elevated TV chefs to the semi-godhood status they enjoy there.
So, you can eat very well in Britain, that is, provided you are willing to pay the price. There are several three-Michelin-starred restaurants in and around London, one of which has been voted a couple of years ago the best restaurant in the world (would it surprise you very much if I told you it was by a panel of British food critics?...) In the best supermarkets, you will find delicacies from all over the world, good quality ingredients and ready meals that sometimes taste better than what you would be served in an average restaurant. And the emergence of the gastro-pubs means that having a quick lunch in a pub is no longer a game of russian roulette, but can actually be quite a pleasant experience. There are even a couple of local fast-food chains where you can have a meal that is both healthy and tasty.
As for the native dishes, well, Brits have been wise enough to preserve those that were worth it, and there are a few. I think I don't need to sing the praise of the English breakfast, one of the most satisfying ways to start the day when cooked properly. Or of the fish and chips, which can be can be a truly heavenly fare, if you know how to prepare it. I have to mention also pies (a turkey and ham pie made with the leftovers of the traditional Christmas meal can be to die for); bread and butter pudding; apple, or better, rhubarb crumble; stilton and port; pim's (not food as such, but there is a lot of fruit in it!); or, last but not least, scones with jam and clotted cream. Not only is that last one delicious, but the whole ritual of high tea as you can still experience it in some British hotels just sends you back to another world. One where no matter what the food in your plate tasted like, you were never going to allow the outside world to disturb your enjoyment of it. Admirable principles!
God, I am feeling quite hungry now. Do you mind if I go for an evening snack?
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